Russell
Experience · Auckland & Bay of Islands, New Zealand
Russell — originally Kororāreka — is a tiny waterfront village on the eastern side of the Bay of Islands, reached by a 20-minute passenger ferry from Paihia or the car ferry from Opua. It was New Zealand's first European settlement and once known as the 'hellhole of the Pacific'; today it's the prettiest overnight in Northland: a single waterfront strip of weatherboard buildings, two excellent restaurants, and Flagstaff Hill behind for the view.
What to do
Walk up Flagstaff Hill (Maiki) for the panoramic view over the bay — 20 minutes up, do it at sunset. Visit Christ Church (1836, the oldest surviving church in New Zealand, still pockmarked with musket balls from the 1845 sacking of the town). Pompallier Mission is the only surviving tannery-printery from the French Catholic mission. Charter a fishing boat from the wharf for a half-day on the water.
Where to eat and stay
The Gables on the waterfront is the best dinner in town — go early for a window table. Hone's Garden is the casual pizza and craft-beer alternative. For accommodation, The Duke of Marlborough (New Zealand's oldest licensed hotel, 1827) is the obvious choice; Eagles Nest above the town is the splurge with private villas and a view across the bay.
Getting there
Passenger ferry from Paihia wharf runs every 20 minutes (10-minute crossing). Car ferry from Opua runs every 10 minutes if you need your vehicle. Driving from Paihia via the long way around is 90 minutes — not worth it.
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